This year, I have the same problem with uncapped honey frames, but I am leaving the frames on. I assume that bees know best and will not cap cells unless the honey is ready. Be patient, but to a point because bees will start eating their own honey during nectar dearth. If you decide to harvest every drop of honey, start feeding sugar water to get bees thru July and August. Feeding might induce robbing. Another issue to worry about. Lastly, I would always check moisture level of uncapped honey before taking it off and extracting.

Without seeing what is in the hive it is had to recommend what should be done.

I recommend to have 3 or even 4 medium boxes ready to be used as honey supers. Some of my hives require 6 honey suppers. I use 3 mediums for brood nest. So, I end up with a stack of 9 boxes. During spring, I check my hives every week to determine if there is a need to put a new super on. Old practice, I was told, is to have always an empty super on the top. This year, you will have frames only with foundation, your bees will create honey comb using honey that they make, so your honey crop will be limited. Bees prefer not to use plastic foundation, I use all wax foundation for honey frames and no queen excluder. I believe that a q. excluder contributes to swarming. The same holds for true for a lack of space for nectar storage. Regards, Paul

If honey is capped, it is finished. Personally, I do not harvest last year's honey. If hive is alive, I let bees to consume it themselves. If I end up with capped honey in a dead hive, I distribute it to my remaining beehives. There might be other ways documented on the web to address your issue. Good luck

This one is so far a number one in my apiary